“Cane” is the common name for Arundo donax, the plant used in the bagpipe industry in the manufacture of drone and chanter reeds. Its history within musical instruments dates back at least 5,000 years and the nuances are such that I will avoid most and save the reader this particular rabbit’s hole. If desired, there are resources on the Internet that will be happy to delve into the material ad nauseam. The choice is entirely yours.
In general, the plant grows for two to three years before it is harvested. Once cut, it is allowed to dry for an additional two years, both in the sun and perhaps kiln-dried in some instances. It is culled according to color and hardness for various purposes.
I once spent several hours with Noel Slagle in Cleveland. Noel made excellent drone reeds. He would sort the cane according to diameter, the larger diameter cane intended for bass reeds. He would clean the bores of each cane tube prior to the making of the reed using a small stationary drill with a set drill bit. I do not know the sizes he used however this step ensured certain uniformity in his reeds. He would cut the tubes to length and seal the closed end with sealing wax. One cut was made and the tongue was split back, the bridle tied, and the reed finished off. It was not a complicated procedure however no doubt his experienced hands made it look easier than it was. Again, there are resources on the Internet if you are interested in making your own reeds.
So, what to l look for in a cane reed? Knowing what my bagpipe likes, I look for reeds with a reasonable length and diameter. I like reeds that are perfectly straight and I like reeds that respond to light blowing without undue coaxing. Generally speaking, it takes several days for the reed to settle in and live up to its potential. I have found that gentle adjustments produce better results than rougher handling, such as springing and snapping the tongue or rolling the reed between two hands. Both these methods leave much to chance.
If I lift the tongue, I’m careful to keep my thumb on the bridle so as not to damage the reed at that point. This also helps me to gauge exactly how much I should lift the tongue to get the desired result. Too much and the reed will roar. It will be hard to tame thereafter.
I sometimes have to shorten the reed to allow deeper insertion into the drone reed seat. I remove the black hemp and trim the length slightly using a very sharp blade. A box-cutter works fine. You’ll need to rewind or replace the black hemp at the end of the reed.
You may also raise the pitch by shortening the tongue. I’ve sometimes tied a new bridle, leaving the old bridle alone. The bridle should be snug but not tight. A too-tight bridle will cause the reed to squeal.
In order for your cane drone reeds to sound and behave properly, you will need to maintain an optimal moisture level in the reed. Too wet or too dry and the reed will simply not sound or behave as it should. I found my reeds worked best when I played my bagpipe daily, even if it was just for a few minutes. I watched other struggle with their reeds simply because they didn’t blow their bagpipes on a regular basis. Also, although I don’t know this be be fact, I suspect that cane drone reeds play best in a sheepskin or goatskin bag.
These few words hardly scratch the surface, as I prefer not to repeat what is found elsewhere. There are several videos online that you will find helpful. Of course, the best resource will be to spend time with someone who is experienced in these matters.
